Tom, I like Sansin and recommend it to anyone who cares to listen.......but Sashco and Permachink also make good products as does Weatherall......Stick with the log home stain companies........The new kids on the block may think they know about log homes but this is a specialty industry.
Are there things about Sansin that make it any better than other products, or why do you like it over others? How long have you been using Sansin, how many Log homes have you used it on, and what is the average lifespan between maintenance coats? Also with Sansin, is there an advantage to using a translucent versus their natural color and would I get more life on the stain if I used 3 coats of the pigmented stain versus 2 coats plus a clear? Thanks for any other info you can provide.
My issue is that I'm restaining our log home and have narrowed it down to Sashco Transformation and Sansin. I've tried some samples and am wrestling with these dilemas:
On Transformation, it applys decent, but I'm worried a bit about it's film forming properties. Sashco says it is better to be a film former and that theirs does not form as bad of a film as others, and is breathable.
On Sansin Classic, I've tried 3 different samples on a stripped, neutralized, sanded, and air blasted piece of eastern white pine log siding. I applied the second coat which was about 24 hours after the first one. After letting it dry for a day, some of the areas on the wood turn out shiny while other areas are a non-shiny or matte finish. I tried applying the third coat about 48 hours later and it continues to show parts of the wood that are shiny and others with the matte finish. I'm worried that I would have a house that has shiny areas all over with the rest being a matte finish. The Sansin rep says this is happening because some areas are harder wood and not allowing as deep of penetration. They have no answers except trying their SDF product instead. I've maybe considered using Permachink's After Blast primer before the Sansin Classic, but this is another step to add to the process.
Any and all feedback is appreciated. Thanks.
Try TWP Cedartone 101 or the 501 if you are in a State that requires lower LOC's. Its made by Gemini out of Oklahoma. It is an Oil base semi transparent stain. You likely will need to caulk with an oil based caulk when using this oil base stain. It rated quite well by the U.S. Forest Products LAb and Texas A&M in a study they did on exterior wood stains.
Just bought a 10 in. full log home last year.I'm located in northern Illinois.Don't know what's on for stain now but found a can of CWF-UV in the basement.I've decided to sand the stain off at my own pace since it's in such bad shape it shouldn't take to long.Any ideas on what the best kind of sander should be used and what grit I need.It's only 1200 sq.ft. I'm leaning towards Sikkens but not sure.Any advice or tips would be appreciated.
If you are going with Sikkens, stick to the Cetol 1 and Cetol 23. The new "Next Wave" will not last near as long as the Cetols. I have been using the Makita 9910 3X18 I think. Very light weight and easy to use. The two I have sand flat. Every other ones I have tried only make contact on the rollers. Use the blue sand paper (Norton), it does last quite a bit longer than the brown. Can't remember the name off hand.
There are contractors that do corn cobb blasting but it would likely cost $2,000.00 or more. I used palm sanders and a variable speed sander for the raised fury areas around the knots. If you e-mail me your e-mail address I can e-mail you a sheet I put together , 'start to finsh' type sheet on prepping and staining interior and exterior log home. Some suggestions that you can add to your research. I started with an 80 grit sand paper ( 3 -M makes a blue colored paper that does not hold the dust and lasts longer when sanding. ) The 80 grit will get the stained layer off quicker then follow up with a 150 grit. This will take some time doing it yourself.
Try and contact the prior home owner and ask what they used, or the builder. This would be helpful if you cannot get all the stain out of the surface. If some original stain remains ask the Mfg of your new choice of stain if it makes a difference if the old is oil based or not when appling their stain. It will be a challenge getting all the old stain out where the logs meet.
Dorothy I would be happy to send you out a sheet about oil vs waterbase stains the
advantage of using water vs oil.Also I will send you out a complete homeowner package
as well,I need you address were to send it.Thanks Greg
I would also be interested in learning the merits/difference between oil and water based stains, if its convenient for you to do so. My context is Wyoming, with the main stresses being UV and temperature swings.