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I am looking to blast my log home with a glass media to remove the paint (YUCK!).  I live in SE Michigan near Flint.

 

1. Where can I rent a blaster (I am told a regular sand blaster wont work)

 

2. Where can I get the glass media? Prefer a local source.

 

3. What glass media specification should I ask for? There is stain under the paint. Paint was applied (by the previous owner) in 2003 and is flaking off.

 

4. Any recommendations for stain? I would prefer a one-step (even if several coats) process. Non-oil based.

 

Thanks.

 

JIM

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Jim, What do you do for a living or is this too bold a question? Do you work for free? It is a lot of overhead to do refinishing work as Beth stated.....I do not do it as I do know the costs involved.
Tim - No I don't work for free and I wouldn't expect someone to blast, stain, etc. my cabin for free. I simply can't afford a professional to do the work. I meant no offense, and in fact value professional advice (that's why I am here) and the advice of those DIY'ers that have done this before me.
I am doing the same type of research and am interested in a few more questions.
1. I am looking at using a schmidt abrasive device with a 185cfm compressor. Anyone have experience with this device?
2. I am looking at using glass media. Any recommendations on company to purchase glass media from? I live in Iowa and don't think we have any companies.
3. What type of nozzle is best? no 3, 4, or 5?

Thanks
If you google for something like: crushed glass abrasive Iowa you should find a company that carries it.

You want a medium grit. We like the New Age, but I'm sure there are others.

185CFM is correct.
Wear respiratory gear!

Beth
http://www.seedirtrun.com
Thanks Beth. Would you recommend a specific nozzle size? What pressure should be used as the glass comes out of the holding tank? This would be PSI right? Maybe I am showing that I don't know the difference between CFM and PSI.
I have some media coming from new age and will be doing a test run in the next week or so.
We use a #5.

CFM is the amount of air the compressor can move.
PSI is the rate at which is it delivered.
The nozzle is relative to the media being used and only slightly increases or decreases the pressure.
On a 185 CFM unit the PSI can be anywhere between 90 and 115 PSI.
You should have an adjustment/flow nozzle (some call it a bantam nozzle) on the pot that adjusts the amount of media introduced into the air stream. That is very important, you need to have that dialed in as lean as you can and still be effective or you will blow through all the media in the pot in no time.

Hope this helps.

Beth

http://www.seedirtrun.com
Thanks again. I was thinking there would be another adjustment that would control the psi. You are saying there are just 3 things I control. The amount of media introduced, the size of the nozzle, and how fast I move the nozzle over the home.
The pot (and they do vary some) may have other things you need to learn about before use.

You need to be able to work the compressor, work the pot (dead man switch will always be with you or your team mate), once you set the bantam adjustment, leave it be.

You may have a handle on the side of the pot to shut off flow and clear your line as well. Study the pot when yu rent it, ask a ton of questions. I am very familiar with our equipment, but there are many versions of things out there.

The pots are simple in design but can be tricky to use under certain circumstances.

One final piece of advice, perhaps the most critical of all....
Connect your air hoses to the compressor, but DO NOT connect them to the until you have run them a good 5 minutes or so. Then connect them to the pot. Again DO NOT add the media until you turn the whole thing on, then connect the blast hose and run air through the system for about 10 minutes. Trust me when I tell you this. Moisture accumulates in those hoses and in the system. You need to blow the system dry. If you skip this, you are going to become very frustrated very fast and your blast hose will dump moist media on the ground.

This is a tough job only typically reserved for pros.
Good luck, and don't skip these steps.

Beth

http://www.seedirtrun.com

p.s. RESPIRATORY GEAR!!!!!!!!
Jim,

I'm curious, have you considered chemical stripping? It has it's advantages and dis-advantages but it's generally more user friendly than media blasting.

I say this because me, personally, I would rather use a chemical stripper, or hire a professional to do the blasting.

I've attached a technical tip on Blasting vs. Stripping. If you have any questions I would be happy to help.

Cathy Mortensen
cathy@permachink.com (800) 433-8781 ext. 2033
Attachments:
Depends on what he needs to remove....but I agree he should consider stripping vs blasting. Although, to do either well, it takes skill.

Beth
See Dirt Run! Inc.
I am removing permachink ultra stain with 2 coats of sealant. Although probably 25-50% of the surface is pealing and cracking with some mold starting. The problem I have is that I have a lot of hair line cracks and water based stain just doesn't cut it. In any case I am moving to oil based stain. I have not done any research on using stripping, but will start tonight. I got an estimate from a company to do the blasting. Not enough money in my pockets for that. I made my own corn cob blaster a year ago and it works ok, but not enough air pressure and a smaller pot. It would take me a long time to do the whole home with it. I am open to suggestions, but I am done with water based stain with 4 coats in total.
If you are still searching for a decent oil, look into Armstrong Clark. It can't crack or peel, although some film forming oils will. If you were not a fan of the Perma-Chink, stay away from Sikkens, it will do the same thing when not properly maintained. It's all about diligent maintenance. Any good product requires it.

Beth
http://www.seedirtrun.com

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