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We recently bought a two story log cabin near Atlanta GA. We have a lot of carpenter bees and some woodpeckers are damaging our logs. In the back of the cabin at the roof line is about 25 feet from the ground. Difficult to reach the little wood-boring buggers! 

Put out two bee traps. Put a dead one in each (I used a tennis racket), but the live bees are ignoring them. Been out about three days.

I have read some articles about controlling bees, but ours are quite high to reach. Especially we have gables and soffits that reach out and hard to reach with a ladder. Of course this is where the majority are focused. I have knocked out about 25 of them with my tennis racket, so now are higher up.

Also have woodpeckers after the bees and are having damage.

I have thinking about getting a water gun and sending streams into the higher reaches with insecticide.

Our log cabin was built by Fireside Log Homes in 1986. This company went out of business in about 2008.

I would really would appreciate your help!

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Hi Bill,

The Carpenter Bee is very intimidating.  They are very and big and fly at you!  Please read this blog and It should help you understand this intimidating bee.  Feel free to email us and we would be happy to help you. 

You have a beautiful log home!  We had customers try to hit them too with tennis rackets!

Carpenter Bee season is coming up.

Carpeter bees are large (1 inch) yellow and black bees which become active in early spring. They resemble bumble bees but do not live in colonies, have fewer hairs and no pollen sacs one the hind legs. They appear around homes and are a nuisance. Although it is rare to be stung by one, their sheer size is scary and people stay clear of them.

Their nest is much more of concern. These nests, if left untreated, will result in extensive structural damage and will result in costly repairs within a few years.
The female will go in and out of the nest so patience will show where the entrance is. Killing the individual bees with a liquid insecticide will not destroy the bee's young.

BIOLOGY-- Carpenter bees get their name from their ability to drill through wood and nest in it. Their drilling will create a near perfect hole approximately 1/2 inch in diameter. This hole usually located on the underside of any wood surface including logs, siding, soffits, overhangs, deks, fence post, facial boards, and window frames.
Although the hole appears to be only and inch or two deep, it doesn't end there.

The female will turn 90 degrees and bore a channel from 6 inches to as long as 4 feet.
The channel serves as a main corridor form which she will drill small chambers a few inches deep. These chambers become egg holders. She will deposit and egg, bring some food, and then seal it off to ensure the egg's development.

The male spends most of his time flying around the nest playing guard. This is ironic as nature has left him ill prepared; he has NOT STINGER! Only the female can sting. Simply killing the male will not solve your problem.


Treating the carpenter bee holes is simple, easy and safe. The best and most effective product to use is DRIONE DUST, and a Crusader Duster. If you are appling yourself please use goggles, gloves, and a dust mask. You can also call a pesticide company in your area to also come and treat the holes.

We hear all kinds of stories how people kill them.
Badmitten racks, baseball bats, tennis racketts.

We had a grandfather who paid the grandkids a quarter everytime they killed a Carpenter Bee! HA HA


Kelly/ I-Wood-Care

Check out this web page for a carpenter bee kit that will help.  Unfortunately, someone will have to get up close to the holes.  The bee traps will work - be patient.  When you get the first couple of bee trapped in the bottle, the rest will follow in short order.

I've used both the kit and the traps on my log home as well as the NBS-30.  I use the NBS-30 as an additive to the exterior finish and can also be mixed with water and sprayed on with a bug sprayer.  NS-30 is an organic product so it will "deter" the carpenter bees and other crawling insects, but will not kill them like chemical products.  You'll find NBS-30 at

Both Kelly and Donald are correct.  We built/moved into our log home in 2010. Unfortunately, we did not add the NBS-30 with the original coat of stain,  however, it was added to the one subsequent staining since then. It has helped greatly but we also have to use the traps.  We have one hanging on every corner.  It did not take long for them to fill up. With all of this, we still have one area similar to yours where they seem to be active.  We use a 23+ foot ladder to reach them.  So far we've kept it down to 2-3 holes and for the last two years have continued to treat them by using the Drionne dust Kelly mentioned (it does work!) then sealing the nest with caulk to hamper their exit.  At first treatment this year, one was inside the nest and another entered it after we applied the dust.  The dust did its job. We do this several times during their nesting season in an effort to stay on top of it as surprisingly, they eat/remove the caulk.  We also apply the dust to the holes in our traps as we have seen a couple of them enter and immediately exit a trap.  We also use badminton rackets and have one on each side of our home for easy reach when needed.  Hope this helps.  This is something that you will probably have to deal with each season.  


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