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I posted a question a few months ago and we are just now getting into our home to clean up and finish the log walls on the interior. I reseached the chemical products for "bleaching" and cleaning the walls before sealing.Based on some replys I got and research We decided to go with just sanding to avoid possible damage to wood if not rinsed well enough. We today put the first coat of water based poly on and were very disappointed that the walls looked very blotchy. Not from the poly,but the sanding job we did. We used 60 grit discs to get the most yellow/dirt off. It looked like we had done a good job, but like I said, it was horrible. Before we go on to do the other rooms, does anyone have a cleaning agent the have used that is safe for the wood, but would lighten the wood and stains before we start sanding? We can't hose the upstairs walls to rinse since the second floor flooring is on, but I supose we could do the great room and downstairs that way if it was the best option. We have sanded the walls thoroughly again and will apply another coat of poly with hopefully a better result for the rooms we have already done. Any info would be great! We are going for a more natural/light look to the logs so did not apply a stain which may have helped hide some blotches! Help please! Thank you!

Jennifer

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120 grit does make a smoother finish, however, it can also create a mill glaze which would require washing off.

Acrylic/Poly/Acrylic... it depends on the manufacturer. If you were using all our products I would say you could put either one over the other. With other products, I can't say one way or another. I just know you don't want to put one companies products over another - you could be opening yourself up for problems.

With our Prelude - No you do not sand after a coat of Prelude. It is a very soft product, and you could easily sand it off, and then you end up blotchy again. You would sand AFTER the first coat of Lifeline Acrylic or Sure Shine. It is so hard to give you specifics on do this, and do that, when I am not talking about using the products I am the most familiar with. I know that may sound like a "cop out", but I don't want to tell you it's OK, and then there become issues down the road. We (Perma Chink Systems, Inc.) don't like issues down the road.

No consulting fees required... ;) This is what I do, and I love it. Did you read the attachment I added to this page for Rodney? This is the most detailed "how to" I have at my disposal. I wish you lived closer so that you could attend one of our workshops. Then you could have all your questions answered in one fell swoop.

Also, keep in mind - the poly and the acrylic may look different over time. Here is my suggestion - in the rooms you've already done with poly - stick with the poly. As you move on to other rooms, switch to an acrylic if you want. Don't try mixing the two up. Unless you want to make sure you have ALL the poly off by either sanding, or using a finish remover. It should be an easy test to see if the poly is gone. Spray water on it. If it gets darker, water is getting into the wood, and all the poly is gone. If the water does not soak into the wood, and runs off, the poly is still there, and you would need to do more sanding.

The recommended application for All our finish products are to spray with an airless sprayer, then back brush to work the product into all the nooks and crannies. Never just spray. And if you only brush, you work it out as far as you can get it to go in order to prevent using too much product.

Stain color for your beams.... that is all a matter of taste, but if you're trying to cover up all the tannin stains, I would choose a dark brown, or a gray... depends on the final look you want. If you'd like, go to our website www.permachink.com and look at our color chats for Lifeline Interior and Lifeline Accents. Choose some colors, and send me an email with the ones you think you'd like to consider. I'll be happy to get some samples on their way to you.

Merry Anne
Rodney,
Do you mind sharing your sanding technique? We seem to have a good system now, but are always looking for other ideas. How long did it take you to complete sanding? it seems to be taking extremely long for us. Are you staining your walls? Thanks for any info you'd like to share! What did you do about stains and did you have much yellowing when you started?
Jen
I used a 5" Dewalt orbital sander with 60 grit premium sand paper for most areas. In tighter and hard to reach areas I was a 1/4 sheet palm sander or a 4-1/2" variable speed grinder with a yellow 3M Bristle disk. The sanding took about 4 days to complete and generated alot of dust. My walls were very yellow dirty and have tannin stains. I had washed the walls once before after the roof was up and before the basement floor was placed with the higher concentration of log wash and that did clean them up alot and stopped the mold. My next steps I plan on are vacuming and sweeping the dust again, caulking the joints (my kit came with Log Builder), washing the walls with Log Wash as Merry Anne outlined, then use Prelude, then stain using Lifeline interior, and finally top coat with Lifeline Acrylic. What I found out about the sanding is use the best sandpaper and change it often.
Did you have any problems with blotchiness after sanding? or do your walls look very even? We have been sanding for 2 1/2 weeks and only have two bedrooms and the kitchen done! Was it just you? or did you have help sanding? It doesn't help that I had to resand the two bedrooms (still working on!) We are also using two grits of paper to get it more smooth. Maybe this is overkill. We are getting so much info. I wish I had talked to Merry Anne to begin with. I will take all the info I can get though. How big is your house if you don't mind my asking. Ours is just under 2000 sq. ft.
Thanks for you input and good luck with your project!
Jen
I'm a few weeks away from all these same issues, sooo i'm all over this stuff!

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