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need to ask ya all which of these would be best to use when building an 8 side log cabin in butt and pass building
Plus----------is butt and pass a good building method when building an 8 sided log cabin? If not what would you recommend? Thank ya ! Kat

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I prefer the lagbolts but you have to counter sink them (1 inch)as well as pre drill out the full depth of the upper log the size of the bolt shaft, this will alow the uper log to be drawn down to the lower not to act like two nuts on one bolt.
That butt and pass on a 45 degree angle has been bothering me for some time now.
I think the easiest way is to do a simple but and pass ,then after it is bolted down, sink the chain saw nose first (kind of dangerous) between the two logs creating a pocket that you can caulk and then slid in a piece of 3/8 plywood or masonite to create a wind /bug stop.

Some companies use a 1 inch dowel in the same way and drilling is safer than chain sawing on a plung cut.
How far apart do you space your lag bolts for 11" logs?
Kathie, I would use the screws available from Perma-Chink........they countersink by themselves and no pre-drilling necessary.........We use them and have tried just about every brand on the market.
They countersink by themselves.................... Sorry Guys they have a 3/8ths head and you can drive them in with a 3/8 drive drill. There's much more power to stop twisting and bowing with a well placed lag.
Konocit's the window you are looking at is hanging from the top the scribed logs are 1/2 logs screwed to the framing the slip joint is on the bottom.
There two courses of full log there (on the bottom)
It is an odd ball the customer made a change from stone to logs after the building was done.
The lag screws are the same thing you are thinking of zink.
when drilling out the upper log all the way through the screws come out ok if you don't spin the head.
The hardend screws are smaller in diameter they have tobe weaker no?
I would use Oly screws or the like spaced about 30" apart. They are cheaper then lags and no predrilling is involved. They also are self countersinking. On the corners once together you can drill a 1' or 1-1/2" hole vertically through the upper log to the lower log and fill it with non shrinking spray foam. This is very easy and a lot safer then using the tip of a chain saw which WILL KICK BACK and may cause injury. I am currently building a flat on flat log home with butt and pass corners. We pattern the male end at a 45 degree and miter the female end at the same angle; then cut the point of the male end off to create a void to fill with foam. Works great with a little saw work to get a perfect fit. The wall seams are butted together and fit with a saw cut through the seam. Drill a hole vertically and fill with foam. Just a side note----full length threaded lag screws will not let the log above settle and the seams will leak. Also almost impossible to screw through large logs. Hope this helps.
Richard and others,
I understand a 90 degree butt and pass used in log construction. What I don't understand is what you are trying to accomplish with either the chain saw or drilling and using foam. I assume you are trying to seal the joint but I can't picture what is happening here.

Thanks,

Joe, Sarasota
At all log seams(ends) there will be leakage due to expansion and contraction of the logs no matter how good of a fit you have. Some builders use a 1" dowel pin to break up the line midway through the cross section seam, I like to use foam due to the ease of use. I believe Bob Mack is saying the same thing except using the tip of the chain saw rather then a drill bit to make the hole or void to fill with insulation(foam). Does this help?
Richard and others,
I think I understand now. In reality you are drilling the hole down through the intersection of the 2 logs to get an hole to fill with the foam. This "foam stop" is then a lot better then just depending on caulking from the out side.

While discussing sealing log joints, what seems to be the best way of "gasketing" between the logs horizonally if using a tongue and groove fit. I read methods include caulk, rubber gaskets, foam gaskets, etc. and some use nothing but the caulk on the outside. (This might be opening pandora's box)

If I ever get to build I want to use a 6 x 12 Flat Genesis style.

Thanks,

Joe, sarasota
Talk about opening Pandora's Box-------there is an opinion on this that would fill a book. In fact I think it has. I like Emseal on each side of the t&g. I am currently using a EPDM "P" gasket toward the outer edge and Emseal toward the inner edge on a flat on flat construction with no t&g. This is just my opinion and subject to rebuttal from many. I was going to use wool but was talked out of it. It just isn't good for flat on flat. It may work with your installation but research a bunch!!!!
Emseal IS only a seal it does not take the place of Oly screws. This was only an answer as to what to use for a seal. DC
Richard do you have any pics of this butt and pass style flat log to flat log cabin you are building? I am going to mill my logs flat on three sides to build with. Do you spike or screw the corner connecting logs on top of pinning in the logs every 30 " ? I am reading thru the book by Monte Burch, Building Log Homes , and it is chock full of info,but I think I have missed a point somewhere concerning those ends of connecting butt and pass corners? Thanks and thanks all who have responed to my question Kat

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