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Anyone ever built an 8 sided log cabin from their trees on their property? I am going to begin building one next month and will be using my new Norwood2000 bandsaw sawmill to cut the bottoms and tops for the logs to lay flush against each other. The only problem I can forsee is building the roof with long over hanging eaves as I want to take advantage of the warmth of the sun from my windows. I decided on 4 foot overhangs,but wonder if I am right by this decision. I am very excited about this and just want to make sure I do everything right ! There will be a loft and the cabin will be 32 feet in diameter,so could anyone tell me what the pitch should be? It will have a metal roof covering too. Thanks for any help and info anyone can send my way !I have added a picture of the floor layout that I kind of will be going by.

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Comment by Bob Mack on December 24, 2009 at 11:50pm
Oh Yea about that roof pitch what your saying is that your roof peak will be 6 foot off the floor of your loft and your building is to be 32 foot wide witch works out to be a 6/16 pitch or 4/12 pitch and your overhang is to be 4 foot or 1 foot 4 inches lower than wall height to your gutter so a door is 6 foot 8 inches wall 8 foot leaving 1 foot 4 inches humm (my head is starting to ach) .Your door will work fine but I would go 9 foot wall height to allow for some over site . You could leave the loft at 8 foot and then add a few more courses after that.once the decking is on stacking a few more courses will be relitivly easy.And a steeper roof looks better and works better for snow and ice back ups leaves etc. Yea I know its more work more money sorry it's easy to suggest from the comfort of my home! If all else fails put up a 2x4 plumb and in center of loft and run a string, the string never lies ........
Comment by Bob Mack on December 24, 2009 at 11:20pm
Hi Kathie
The differance between a butt and pass verses a notch and pass is that, in the notch and pass the log that passes has a notch to accept the butt log into it for 1 inch typicaly. This is a more sound corner as the logs schrink there will be no daylite at the corner. This is typicaly called a butt and pass, but, we don't want to overlook or assume. As for the spline it is another "obstical for the wind to go around.
Comment by Kathie Wood on November 29, 2009 at 2:35pm
hi Bob------------can you please explain the spline on butt and pass,better is a notch and pass with spline and caulk? I need all the info I can get and thanks to Kent too and you I have more to work with ----------Thank you !
Comment by Bob Mack on November 29, 2009 at 1:26pm
Well I should log on more than once a year! And I have to agree with Kent on height and clearance issues. Taller is better as for the view out the window you will have to be 5 foot tall or duck to see the horizion. Never mind the sky if you are a storm watcher.Consider 10 foot exterior walls and some skylites in the loft. Also plan on some sort of spline on the butt and pass joints,better is a notch and pass with spline and caulk. Good luck Lucky ou
Comment by Clarence Pond on August 15, 2009 at 1:29pm

We have a similar floor plan on our website. You can check it out at
Comment by kent ifland on July 7, 2009 at 10:15am
Kinda hard to figure this stuff without knowing exactly what you are doing about rafters and such, but here goes: The house is 32' wall to wall and I am assuming you will have a center post to support the ends of the hip rafters and you have stated the center of the loft will be 8' high. You also stated 8' high outer walls. The pitch will be 6/12 on the jack rafters. Headroom of 6' will occur at 4' from the center of the loft, so this gives a loft size of 8' wall to wall. Also assuming a 4' eave overhang, maximum door size will be 32" wide when opened to 90 degrees. However if you raise the outer walls by only 2" you will get enough clearance for a 36" door. Now, if you increase the outer wall height by 1' and the center post height by 1' so you now have 9' outer walls and 9' center height, you will still have a 6/12 pitch, plenty of clearance for door swing, and the 6' headroom height in your loft increases to 6' from the center, making a 12' room.
Comment by Kathie Wood on June 29, 2009 at 6:17pm
I will be doing butt and pass. The loft does not need to have much more height than 6 foot at the front and open to the lower floor. I will not be using any more then two walls for the bedroom and the small bathroom,leaving a large hallway going to a back door. Will be using rebar to pin the logs and the corners.I want my walls at eight feet,hopefully,but can make do with making the taller for the over hanging eaves if I have to do so. By the way,one does not have to have the tops of their windows even with the tops of their doors-----------I like things not so uniform--------lol ! So if my walls were to be at 8 foot and the loft floor at 8 foot and the lofts open area at 6 foot from that 8 foot to the center tip top--- Got me?--- Kind of confused myself there----lol !---what would be considered the pitch and if I had a 4 foot overhang would that interfere with opening my doors?
Comment by Bob Mack on June 28, 2009 at 4:42pm
Well the roof pitch will play into how much loft space you have as well as how tall you will need to build your walls to clear the door openings and view out the windows.
the top of a typical window will be at the same height as the top of the doors 6foot 8 inch.
Since you are using dead standing timber your concern over scrinkage will be minamal.
I have been doing loghomes accross the country and have to ask how are you going to handle the corners?
Comment by Kathie Wood on June 27, 2009 at 7:22pm
Oh yes there will be two doors------------this design is just something for me to go by,I have changed it somewhat and there will also be a hald loft above the main floor. I looove it too ! We have begun work !!!!
Comment by carol Hughes on June 27, 2009 at 2:06pm
I really like this design, but I only see one outside door. Will you be putting another outside door in the pantry? I'm just curious.

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