Good morning Bob! I wanted to give you an update on the project. I tried numerous stains and it works great. I like it! Now, you had mentioned a way to remove the "glossy" look from the logs and I wanted to know what that was prior to go forward with the staining. Can you remind me? I can't find it on the prior threads. Thanks again!
Thanks for your help.....I will contact the Organiclear to see if they have an experiences with one chinking product over another. The logs are 11" white pine that are Swedish coped and a spline system with wood strips and foam in these splines run the length of the logs.
I love the look of chinking and was wondering if a person could do this on the inside so that I could have that look and not have to worry about working around it when restaining the exterior.
Also would chinking the inside elimante the need to for chinking or caulking the exterior?
I'm also planning to use organiclear on the inside which I believe is an oil based product. You had mentioned that chinking was hard to do after an oil based product was applied, but you would have to mask all of the chinking if you do that before staining since I'm using a interior stain not clear.
I would appreciate any help you could give me since this all Greek to me
Hi Bob, Thanks for the mail
Yes the front is the front gable wall, were the porch is 12' deep, the porch is closer to the ground there, otherwise I would need a 7' tall stair case on the side, we dont like to climb,, No biggie, I'll wait to hear from ya, thanks
Thanks Bob! Well, I also tried some stain here and it actually worked pretty well. I did have to use the darker color, but it covered quite well and just a bit darker. I think I'll probably go with it! I'll let you know!
HeyBob, Just wanted to throw something at you, I had considered having a peak over the front porch stairs like the place in cashiers, that would break up the pizza hut look, and signify the front entry more, I dont know what would look better on the front , Thanks G.
I saw the pics from cashiers, lots of good ideas, I had considered some bark siding before, N. Carolina was the only place I could find it, Poplar bark, they were proud of it, used to be made from chestnut before the blight, apperently wears like nails, wish I could find it closer to MO. twig rails were great, eve accents were neat too, the two materials roof adds oldness look, If I had the nerve I'd try it, can look cool, to change subject, I wasn't sure how the porch roof running down the right side would butt into the screened porch roof, straight of course but theres a pitch change near the sreened roofs ridgeline if you keep in sync with the right side, unless I can start the screened ridgeline right at the pitch change, thats probably the ony way to make it a smooth transition
Yes the porch does run as one straight line down the entire right side, A/ is an 4' deep uncovered walk way/deck going passed the window wall of the greatroom, B/ is a 8' deep right side deck, C/ is a 12' deep front porch, and D/ is also an 8' deep left side deck, I planned on putting at least a 2' overhang passed these measurments for deck protection if not a little more than 2', the porch is all treated, and I have no desire to start staining them, as you can tell I dislike wood care for myself, becuase Ive been doing it for a living for 28 years, E/ the walls are 9' tall as framed with 2x4x9's , but the trusses had an extra 2' 3" in height engineered on to the heel that sits on the 9' wall for insulation purposes, I havent desided if I will cut the truss tails off and make the pitch change at the 11'3" height or leave the tails on and stick build the mono trusses for the porch from the slightly lower point of the truss tails, I would guess at a 10/12 pitch its abut 1' lower than 11'3" at the truss tail tips, I dont want the porch roof line to hog up to much height on the front of the cabin were the loft windows will go, all depends on how the 4/12 pitch plays out for cieling height as I will most likely put an 8' or 9' ceiling inside the wraparound porch, hope you can follow that, I had also considered leaving the porch cieling exsposed underneath, whats your thought on that ? Anyway thanks alot for taking an interest in my project, hope that covers it for now, let me know, Greg
BOB: Great to hear from you! We are bon vivants of the the log and timber design world and the whole social networkinging thing is a bit new to us. Erwin and I are crashing at the Grove Park Inn in Asheville tonight getting ready for the kick-off of a new project Friday at 8 am. We start a new project somewhere in the world every week. Thank you for your interest. We have a one hour drive left in the morning and I will be glad to add some commentary to your questions in the morning. Good night from the east coast and thanks for taking interest in our work! Allen
Thanks for your efforts. I actually called the people at loghelp.com yesterday too. What I was looking for is a stain that is brown..no yellow or orange, that could really cover it. They are sending me some samples. I'm excited to see what you come up with. I'm just worried that the new stain won't cover the damn orange! :-)
The hybrid cabin is 30' across the face & rear, 40' down the sides, the screened porch roof will be an exact copy of the back fascia/ main house roof, coming out 20' from the back corner, looking from the back yard at the back, the screened porch roof will go 8' to the left from the back corner and 10' to the right, the center ridgeline should be 1' to the right of the corner, swallowing up 10' of the rear gable wall, I may have confused you even more, I wanted to go back & put 2 simple A shaped dormers on each side of the main roof, also put a lookout room on the ridgeline of the main house, but only if it looks good. The wraparound porch is accessed from the front, the front door was supossed to go on the front of the house with an entry foyer origionally, but now the front end is getting packed with bedrooms so we decided to put the front door down the right side, but still access the porch from the front, kinda screwy ,but I have seen it done on sloped lots, I'd like to jazz up the front porch entry somehow, maybe we could do a live chat at a certain time, my kids are always playing on the computer & I've been getting your messages late, plenty of design work here, I was to broke to hire a architect or find plans to follow, just figuered I'd start with a square box then go from there, Thanks Greg
BOB, i DO LIKE THE FRONT ELEVATION DRAWING YOU MADE, tHAT IS WHAT i WAS TALKING ABOUT, MY KID IS PUNCHING BUTTONS, YES THE GABLE ENDS/are getting stone veneer, another person on this site said his gable overhang on the south end was 7' deep, would you recomend that much ? My whole design is only half figuered, I like hearing new ideas, Thanks greg, theres lots to discuss about it.
Lets talk about facia board design for a while, the cabin will have a 4/12 porch roof coming off the main houses 10/12 roof. The porch roof will go around the front & the two sides, the left side porch roof will end on the back corner, as not to block my great room window wall, the right side will goall the way down to the corner were it hits the corner, then turns into screened in porch for 20 feet out, me and my carpenter talked about what we call the pizza hut effect, too much plane jane porch roof, dindt know if I skould signify the entry stairs with a chang in roof angle over the stairs or not, the standard A shapoed fascia bords seem way too plane jane, I wouldnt mind one that prows out in the back, but not in front, maybe theb one design that steps back about 1' about a third of the way down fron the peak, I've also been considering some knee braces, made from logs or anything, under the underhang, just trying to cabin the place up. Let me know what you think
From what I can see, it will take 6 months to a year for the siding to air dry, I guess I better start buying it up, I planed on getting a metal roof on the place a.s.a.p. this spring, I dont care if the siding goes up this summer or not , plenty else to do, place wont be done this year anyway.
I guess I dont have to decide anything for a while, the tree corners sound kinda cool, I saw a site were they used trees upside down & let the flairs go into the ceiling inside, sounds weird, but looked cool. I really wanted the dovetail corners, maybe I could build a false dovetail corner & just stand it in place and say, too hell with the gap between the siding & dovetails, anything else I use would have a gap anyway,I guess I'll have too cross that bridge when I get to it, Thanks for all your effort,Greg
I guess we should ditch the glueing idea, I was thinking about the way they are when people sell this type of siding pakage, they are the real deal, they usually come ,I guess, with a 2-3' piece of siding attached to the dove tail, I'd need a boat load of logs to pull that off, at one tail per log end it would take alot, thats the best way I'm sure, If its gonna be to much moola & hassle, I'll have to go with a straight corner piece, do you have any suggestions on styled corner pieces ?, I was thinking maybe a tree with root flair on the bottom, cut out the back side & make it fit. Let me know your ideas, thanks Greg